Chamonix and above

This is a delightful town full of cafes designer shops and active sport shops.

It seems to buzz all year round as it is both a hiking and a skiing centre.

Clare and i have just gone up to the Aigule de Midi (cable car)

This was the most scary experience of my life. The car takes you about two thousand metres above Chamonix and above most of the mountains.

The final section of the lift seems to be almost vertical. At he top you are on a glacier and above a summit snowfield. You an look straight down on Chamonix and out and down on almost everything.

The photos show climbers on the ice below, the Chamonix Valley and Mt Blanc.

Friends along the way

We met many interesting people along the way. Hello to Karen and Doug hope you enjoyed the rest of your trip. Canadians are good travelling companions again.

There was a group of 25 Koreans who carried tents and food (hard work)

The bubbly Finnish girl travelling with her sisters and mother. The Danish family who we shared breakfast with at Rifugio Elizabett and then met at Col de Balme 5 days later. We had travelled in opposite directions. We really enjoyed our dinner at Tre le Champs with the German graduate in International Relations and her Swedish boyfriend. They met studying in Korea and used English as their common language. The two British grey campers added to the fun with their stories of the hardships of camping.

Thanks to the happy american who arrived at a tiny cafe on the side of a mountain and called down to his local guide who was a minute behind him "where is the toilet". As we were leaving we both passed  a drinking fountain fed from the glacier - guess what he asked us.

Is this water cold. I love americans abroard.

The British ultra marathon couple and the Kiwis from Queenstown kept popping up and everyone above along with many more made the trip even more rewarding

Thankyou all

Final days rest spot and trail

These are two typical scenes from our final days walk through pine forest and with magnificent views from rocky points and when crossing rock fall scree slopes.

Two views of our final refuge Tre le Champ. The sleeping platforms were three in a row together but there was hot water in the basins and the food was great.

A long interesting day

We planned to walk from Tre le Champ to Refuge La Flegere which was a four hour walk along the ridge line opposite the Mont Blanc range. The interest is this was the continuous panorama of Mont Blanc and the series of ladders built into the hillside that we had to navigate. If you didnt know, I am scared of heights. This route left us enough time to possibly visit Lac Blanc. A glacial runnoff lake 1000m above the valley floor.

The path was well signposted and took us an hour less than expected. It also stayed 500m lower that the map and also didnt have any ladders.

In short, we went the wrong way to get to the right place quicker.

Arriving at a nighttime camp before 12 is not good so new plans were made.

We left our packs at a chairlift station and did a 2 hr return to the lake.

I had a 30 second swim. In hindsight I wish I had stayed longer, but i was worried about my heart.

We then had a decision to make.

If we decided to catch a chairlift down to Chamonix then we could finish the walk today. The only problem was we had a two hour walk and only 1.45 left till the chairlift closed. Being Aussies (at least 75% anyway) we decided to do it. Clare set the pace and i did my best. We made it with two hours to spare (thanks to extended summers hours).

So we are in Chamonix and safely finished walking.

Flowers 4

A bit of food 2

The food continues to be a highlight.

You can get most things the same as homeif you look hard (though we have given up on skim milk and mostly drink black tea and coffee).

The breakfasts and dinners were mostly included in the "half board" rate at the rifugios and hotels along the route so it was lunches where we could "let loose" our desires.

Pictured are a tomatoe salad that was delicious, a fondou, a palenta (corn based and nice with the tomatoe and sausage centre) and vegetable soup (strong on lentils). Pasta is served with less sauce eg Fettucini Fungi. We also bought a lunch pack from a rifugio ( egg, apple, muffin, tomatoe, and of course ham and cheese roll ) magic on the top of a mountain though not light to carry.

Enjoy

Switzerland to France

Across the border we go again.

No guards - just a very cranky old lady.

Today we walked down into a Swiss valley near Trient (see photo) and then up up up etc etc etc over Col de Balme into France.

Yes you are right that is where we started. When we reached the Col we were greated by Mt Blanc again as well as the Chamonix Valley (our starting point).

We were also greated by a famously cranky old lady. I went into the Rifugio and asked for bread with jambon and fromage. This seemed to be understood but was answered with gesticulations and all my words repeated angrily. I indicated that i did not understand and so she shouted the same words even louder. At this point I called in support. Clares French is good in my books. Clare worked out that we could have ham or cheese but not both.

The lady is famous. There is a not so cryptic comment in the guide book and many amusing stories at the next rifugio. Wow what a position though!

A big cuppa

Many refugios served coffee and tea in large mugs or whatever other container was available. This is a lot of black coffee. Served at the rennovated dairy below the Konga line , Rifugio des Mottets. Just the thing before the 700m climb up to the Italian border at Col de la Seigne

So much bull

We commenced the day with a very pleasant walk through Champex and along the lake. We then walked gently downhill thtough scattered lodges and farmhouse. After about 30min this gave way to pine forest. It was about 18° and the sun was behind the mountain. Great weather for walkers from Newfoundland.

After another 30 min we began climbing. We were still shaded and the path only gradually got steeper so it took a while to realise that this was now a challenging morning.

We continued climbing steeply for about two hours until we reached the place that gave todays path its name "Bovine". Nestled 50 metres below the summit was a farmhouse cafe. The feature that distinguished it from many was the close proximity of the milking shed and hence the herd of verrrry large cows which you needed to navigate to achieve refreshments.

After a cold drink we braved the herd again and commenced our downhill journey to Col de la Forclaz where we had a most interesting late lunch (more later) and overnight stay at the roadside hotel.

A cool surprise

Champex contains a secret , unseen from the valley below. A beautiful lake greets the climber. Alas it also greets motorists and the two races live on relative harmony in what looks like an idyllic haven from the bustle.

The view from the room was back along the mountain valley from whence we came.

Stroll along the Riverside

La Fouly 1610m to Champex 1466m

A brief jaunt for hardenned walkers?

With a 4.5 hr walk down 500m then up 500m it was written up as a pleasant stroll. Clearly everything is relative.

This was however a pleasant day, starting with a riverside path 2.5hrs. We followed the glacial runnoff river of Val Ferret climbing and falling to go around rock falls, cliffs and ravines. Always surrounded by pine forest, this was most relaxing indeed. We had a Cafe Olay (which became Cappuccino) at the last house in the village of Issert and then headed up. 

The 500m climb took about 90min and was quite strenuous. Again in pine forest and on easy dirt tracks the hardest thing was not tripping on tree roots.

Hot sweaty and undoubtedly smelly we arrived at Hotel Splendide.

This is the majestic building perched on the cliff edge that we had seen for miles up the valley floor. Look for what Clare is photographing in the attached photo. This hotel is like a relic of a lost empire.

Undoubtedly grand but in need of new vigor. Need to go now as it is time for dinner. We have half board, which means avset meal dinner and breakfast. We musn't be late - we are in Switzerland.

A bit of food 1

One of the joys of walking in different places is eating different food and without guilt.

The food has been very enjoyable. With breakfasts I have enjoyed the quantity. Clare has enjoyed different breads with jambon and fromage. I will let the pictures tell the story.

View from the window La Fouly

I have inlcuded two photos here, both from our room. One of an amazing rock slide and the other a rather spectacular glacier sending a raging torrent down to the village.

Flowers 3

Trails, tears, travails tornadoes and trauma

Well, enough of all the Julie Andrews sound of music stuff. What would Captain Von Trapp say.

The paths have been well marked and mostly easy to walk. No mud so far, not many road walking sections.

My fears of falling to any alpine death have not come to fruition so far. There have been many extremely steep slopes but we have been walking across them not up them. 

Most days have been about 6 hrs walking with several refreshment breaks available. 

Today was the first rain (after we finished), two days were 30+ and none have been icy or snowing. There has been snow lying in some high areas. The wind has mostly been welcome cool breezes.

No breaks or sprains, small blisters and minor chaffing, a little sunburn and stiffness. Walking up is ok for the first 700m then its hard work. Walking downhill is more uncomfortable unless it is very gentle ( a rarity).

We are about average age, with some teens and younger and a few seventies and older

Flowers 2

Chalet Val Ferret 1784m to La Fouly 1610m

The metre readings beligh the actual climb and descent. From Val Ferret (Italian) we climbed like madmen, straight up 753m to Grand Col Ferret 2537m see photo, back to the Chalet in the valley floor, from the Col which doubles as the border into Switzerland.

From the pass we wound fairly gently down 900m to La Fouly in another Val Ferret, this being a Swiss one.

On the way we stopped for an early lunch of beer and a cheese and ham sandwich on local bread called black bread but actually being brown (probably Rye).

A few Flowers 1

I dont know what they are, but they are everywhere and very colourful.

I'll let the photos do the talking.

Courmayeur to Chalet Val Ferret 1784m

We left the delightful town of Courmayeur a little earlier 7.30 to avoid the heat. It had taken a little coaxing to get an early breakfast 6.45 but in the morning they were most helpful. I think their concern was that they could not get fresh croissants to us (they suceeded). The TMB took us through the streets climbing steeper and steeper past picturesque city houses giving way to farmhouses and then after climbing about 250m we turn off the road a really began climbing. We zig zagged up the mountainside for another 500m until we reached Rifugio Bertoni. Towards the top we got amazing views back to the valley floor. The path then followed one side of the valley about half way up giving us a delightful walk amongst pine forrests and alpine meadows. We lunched at Refugio Bonati where we sat outside to admire the view across to Monte Bianco and its surrounding icy spires. After lunch ( where we once again met our Canadian friends) we pressed on doing another 90 minutes along the valley before stopping for the night. This was further than the guidebook recommended but Clare had wisely seen that the following day was a very tough one and a little headstart would help.

The photo is Rifugio Bonati

View back to the Courmayeur valley

After 4kms 90min and 600m we were rewarded with these views

Refugio Elisabett 2195m to Courmayeur 1226m

This was our second day of cheating, but more on that later. The photo is of Monte Bianco from Monte Favre Spur.

We skirted Monte Bianco all day firstly walking gently downhill on an army built gravel road and then climbing steeply on the opposite side of the valley for 500 metres to Monte Favre Spur 2430m and a great view of the Bianco Mastif (it is more than one mountain).

We lunched at Rifugio Maison Vielle, the only option within an hours walking. When we arrived there were twenty tables outdoors in a paddock with beach umbrellas on each. They were all full.

Looking hot tired and probably smelly we approached a table with a solo man in the hope of sharing.

In a highly cultured British accent he advised that he had booked for his party of six for 1.30 (it was12). He offered us the table and said his party would do a stroll up the mountain and that the proprieter would look after him on their return. He then called over the owner by name and introduced us. He said we would be looked after. His story - he lived in Cambridge but came to this part of Itally many times a year and came for lunch to this Rifugio once every trip. He also recommended a Cafe in Courmayeur which he also visited every trip. To reppay the kindness we offered the other to seats to a father and teenage daughter who were up from Rome for a week of hiking. She chatted to us in excellent english which she learned from a private tutor. It was very hot about 35 (at 2000m) and she said Rome was also hotter than ever

View from the window - Refugio Elisabett

Well, there only seemed to be rock and ice out the window 

Or should I say

Glaciers and towering mountains. This was truly a barren, isolated and awe inspiring spot.

View from the room - Courmayeur

This is an alpine resort town like Thredbo or Banff. Lots of expensive clothes shops and sidewalk cafes - lovely.

Rifugio Elisabett

I will let the picture do the talking.

Nestled high in the mountains and surrounded by mountain streams flowing directly from glaciers this Rifugio was a haven from the elements.

As soon as you walked in you smelt a complex aroma of foods to come.

Despite its neat appearance it was a rabbit warren of sleeping quarters with beds for over a hundred. Dinner was at 7 or 830 depending on when you arrived. We all had allocatedvseats by languages spoken so no one was isolated. We share a 4 bed dorm with a Finnish mother and adult daughter. Their english was excellent and they did not snore.

Day 3 Les Chapieux to Rifugio Elisabetta

This was a very nice day, 1000m up and only 260m down.

All day we wound our way up a valley towards Col de la Seigne (2516m). We started along a narrow country road beside a fast flowing riverlet. We left the road at 90min and at about two hours stopped for a drink in a dairy farm rennovated to be a Refugio (accom and food for walkets and mountain bikers). See the coffee in my post on food, soon.

The views from the top into Italy and back into France were amazing see earlier post.